Volvo 480 Club Europe

I forgot about this, I will probably do it. It should be fine for doing comparisions on different modifications. At the moment I'm only running 4psi of boost, but I should see some difference after I change the cam shaft (either good or bad!). You probably will see a good result, because of the low...

I'd ditch the EDIS coil pack as I believe it needs it's own Ford trigger wheel. You will need to open the Megasquirt up and possibly change a few wires inside. It says Megasquirt 2 in the ebay ad, was it listed wrong then? If it is MS1, then check out www.extraefi.co.uk, its a pretty good site for n...

clio turbo wrote:wot firmware do i need to install?

What Megasquirt have you got? Theres V2.2 and V3.0 of the PCB, and then MS1 CPU or the never MS2 CPU.

No need for MAF! Megasquirt in most setups uses MAP sensor and IAT (Air intake temp) to work out airflow. I've already ditched the standard crankcase breather system, and if you remove the dump valve return pipe you can literally pipe an air filter straight on the turbo. I was thinking of placing th...

I'm getting a bit confused, so this is how I understand the cam id system to work:- B18E 1-3 http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p273/me_up_high/CamIDb18e.jpg My B18E has markings just like this. I think eEm has the right idea how the markings are done. None of the indentations have any markings ins...

@480_rocket: keep me informed about results on the B18E camshaft please! Will do, although it won't be very scientific, as I don't want to spend lots on dyno runs. I just looked at the standard ignition amplifier used on the B18FT, and it seems the amplifier does dwell control which I didn't realis...

@480_rocket: keep me informed about results on the B18E camshaft please! Will do, although it won't be very scientific, as I don't want to spend lots on dyno runs. I just looked at the standard ignition amplifier used on the B18FT, and it seems the amplifier does dwell control which I didn't realis...

I have a B18E camshaft that I'm going to try in the near future, waiting on the LC-1 to be repaired.

gixfighter, it seems my value for 95 celcius could be wrong. See here:http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page= ... ensorTable

I will try and remeber where I found the values listed and double check everything.

Have a look under the cold air feed to the air filter box. If you still can;t find them, trace them back from the Lambda sensor on the cat. On mine they ran along the subframe then up to the battery tray. At that point there were the connectors.

The values for the temp sensors were taken from a mixture of Haynes/Vardis and give exactly the same reading as the infocentre. I tried using the Bosch defaults at first and it gave me wrong readings. Perhaps MS2 is different in some way, or you built using different bias resistors? They are R4 and ...

...and off goes the best part of £100 for an ABS sensor! Ouch

Seems a lot of people are needing these sensors and they just aren't many around on scrappers.

Under normal driving I was seeing a 15 degree celcius rise in inlet temperatures above ambient outside temperature. Try and find some research on what a good intercooler can do. If you raise boost by a large amount, change the turbo to a more suited sort as the turbo will not be stressed so much and...

Perhaps getting more air in is an option to lean the mixture (head porting/ gasflowing)? :wink: Thats a very good idea! I am a bit surprised to see you are running too rich, I would have assumed from running higher boost etc that it would be a lean condition you would be suffering from. Are you usi...

With the B18FT, with its Hereon head and good 95 octance fuel I would have thought peak advance would be in the 32-35 degree range.

I think the wiring for MS2 is pretty similar.

As for that ignition map that was posted up here some time ago, I don't think you'll get much power from it. I would post my MSQ file up, but my LC-1 has died on me (after about 10 hours use!!).

Even running really rich, like yours seems to be you can still make decent power. However, tune the AFRs better and you should see better power and fuel consumption.
http://www.daytona-sensors.com/engine_t ... Torque.gif

http://volvo-480-europe.org/clubdata/ad ... t=00000085

It was advertised on ebay some time ago and ended up being removed early, guess they had a private offer.

I think if you take the side trim off near where your feet are in the foot wells, there is the connector there for the door switchs. I could be wrong, but it looks like thats the wiring.

Pinouts of the 1.7 turbo Throttle body TPS:

1 5v
2 Shield/GND
3 Signal
4 Idle Switch
5 No connection
6 Idle switch GND


Pinout of the 2.0 litre (and I guess 1.7 NA) throttle body TPS:

1 GND
2 5v
3 Signal