Volvo 480 Club Europe

More thoughts before the result of the lamp test comes in.... I think the CEM cannot supply sufficient current to light the lamps. Unplug connector B of the CEM and apply +12v to the centre pin of the stalk. You should be able to operate the stalk and get LH/RH lamps lighting. Then the stalk, lamps,...

Hi Richard I'm going to slip in a quick "I told you so" about the stalk. I'm very suspicious about the pulsing from the CEM. Does the voltage on the centre pin of the stalk also pulse? With no load (i.e. no current drawn by the lamps) I would expect NO pulsing - or at least very rapid. Notice how ca...

If you supply +12v to the centre pin of the stalk (should be green/brown wire) and the lamps operate left/right as you shift the stalk, then the stalk switch is NOT the problem. Also, a fault with the stalk CANNOT stop the hazard lamps.... The green/brown wire that goes to the centre pin of the stal...

Gidday! This should be fairly easy to find if you have access to a multimeter & know how to use one....Tandy/Radio Shack should be able to do one for a fiver.... Let me know if the answer is yes, and I will help you diagnose the fault. (A diagnosis is way preferable to guessing) There is very little...

OK Glasgow Jim. We're going to set a world record for long distance diagnosis of a 480 electrical fault! Grab your multimeter and an assistant (to turn the key while you hold the meter probes) I'd like you to measure the voltage on the following pins of the CEM & let me know the results. 1. Pin 3 of...

Haven't had a chance to test the loom yet, but in reply to the question re. schematics - check the download section of this website. All you ever wanted in English (and Dutch?). Better have broadband though!
Wanted to confirm: your car is manual? Cheers. d.

Oops - sorry. Yes, I started a new thread when I just meant to reply. And if I had read the thread properly, I would have realised that the other guy had the autoelectrian around. I haven't had a proper look yet, but I don't think there is anything active between the ignition switch & solenoid that ...

OK - I'll look at the later diagrams to see what else may be responsible.
Two questions - do you have access to a multimeter? Cheapo digital ones are around (Tandy, Radio Shack etc) for under 10 quid.
Secondly, is the car automatic?

For crikey's sake! It's obvious! You have a faulty autoelectrian. Change that for one with a few miles under his/her belt. New ones sometimes don't come complete. Not even a wacky 480 is that weird. 12v from battery to ignition switch, to solenoid. Solenoid switches battery juice direct to starter m...

Regarding the plastic film - I've had fair sucess using a hairdryer to soften the adhesive holding the film. Over time the glue can too hard for this too work, so a tear may still result... having said that, it's easy enough to cut a new piece from PVC and glue it back in. Some PVC films have a 'hea...

Whoever did the clutch should get a real kicking for not doing the bearing at the same time. The bearings are cheap, and labour is not...unfortunately you have to separate the gearbox from the clutch as if you were replacing the clutch plate. See your Haynes manual for details...

The clutch plates for 480es come in three sizes, depending on the engine. 1.7efi is the smallest, with the turbo and 2 litre models each being larger. There are well priced (about 30 quid - $NZ90) clutch plates available that are asbestos free etc. After market release bearings are also readily avai...

Yep, just push them out. Open the door & wind the window down. Suggest that you start at the top corner, and assist the rubber around the frame as you push out. Once the window starts to come away, put your spare hand through the open window and support the quarterlight before it crashes to the grou...

It's not something routine like spark plugs, leads, distributor cap or rotor arm? When were these last replaced? And are the plugs of the correct temperature range and gap? I think the idle control valve is often blamed. The resistance you quote is OK - provided the rotor is free to move, that beast...

Because the quarterlight and rear side windows are conventional in the way they are mounted, it's a piece of cake to push them out by hand, seal them up and remount them using the cord method (see any Haynes manual for an older car). I'd recommend an assistant for the larger rear side window though....

Your English is just fine. I tend to go into a bit of detail when I do a posting....some would say I waffle....
Sadly I'm not multi-lingual, so I am in awe of anyone that can do a fair job of communicating in a range of languages. Thankfully this website is not in Dutch!

The infocentres are pretty easily fixed by an electronics hobbyist. The electrolytic capacitors spew out. Search the forum for my detailed posting on the subject.

The alternator doesn't know (or care) what size battery you have. The regulator (a solid-state asssembly inside the alternator) limits the amount of current delivered to the car/battery. It is set to an appropriate rating for the car, so if you do a dramatic electrical change to the car like fitting...

You'll win in the end. I think hjkort might be right about the splash guard as only one of my cars has one. I can't photograph it in the short term as it is stored in my sisters garage 100km away, but I will put a pix on later just for interest sake. I think a leak around the fuse box is not so like...

It seems that you're pleased that stripped the interior. I certainly was. It's not that big a job. Previously, I had the windscreen, dash, loom etc all out for a broken windscreen & rust repair, so everything got the treatment as it went back together. I have a spare blower rubber thing if you're ev...