Volvo 480 Club Europe

Alan 480 wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 12, 2020 12:57 pm

cranna21 wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 07, 2020 11:12 am

as far as growing arms and legs on this winters budget go, I think I'd make an octopus jealous at this point... new welder and consumables inbound, make a proper job of this

for more arms and legs then I'd suggest that rather than using an adjustable panhard you should put in a Watts linkage for the left to right.

at present the fore-n-aft is already on Watts so this would be an easy fix? simply repeat the 'sub-chassis' mounting from RHS to LHS and and a bush in the centre of beam axle . .. . .


only a thought?

Maybe in 2030 for now, I just want to get it mobile again!

The new welder has arrived and what a great little thing to set/work, not quite got my settings 100% but nearly there!

One chassis leg repaired last night so next job is to start work on inner arch/the area where the sunroof drains + stupid sponge thing once was. Following that, I'll go onto the torque bar mount and finish up with the floor!



just a coat of weldable zinc on there at the moment did the inside of the chassis leg and new panel too before welding up. All I've replaced here is the visible verticle section of the chassis leg, 30mm of horizontal on the underside of it and then a 15mm return on the top as you can see for fixing the floor too, then I made up a gusset with holes in it to spot and seam weld to strengthen up where the original chassis leg was double thickness. I know its not 100% OEM, but the car isn't any way and so long as it's strong, well enough executed and going to last I'm happy - I'm far from a spot weld counter as you can tell note that I'll be removing most/all of the original underseal rubber stuff in due course once I'm all patched up on this side and I'll re-do everything

For anyone interested, I'm using a ROHR MIG-250MI-11 ( https://unionmart.co.uk/product/rohr-ma ... -250mi-11/ ) with 0.6mm wire and tip and some hobbyweld 5 gas, seems to be a nice little setup!

looks tidy enough, cardboard might be a bit of an MoT issue. . . .

I hate doing the overhead stuff

if uphill i tend to use the 'plug weld approach'

but if you wanted to count spot welds, i happen to have one welder not counter. . . . .

FIIIIINE - I'll replace it with metal...

Last nights endeavours pictured - really quite chuffed with this wee welder, going great, making light work of it and surprising myself even with what I'm achieving, again it's not 100% OEM but it's good enough!

(Please excuse my impertinence )

FROM:



TO:



Only panel not home fabricated so far is the wee triangle at the bottom of the arch you see I've replaced, it's a wee cut from my spares car that I cut up recently.

Next up is the inner arch as you can just see on the final pic and there's a small patch needed on this side just to the side of the upper spring perch, following that I'll get a suspension bracket made up with some 3mm plate and then finally the floor can go back in!

oh and then to repeat it all on the drivers side...

Looking good so far

Cheers sir, chipping away at it bit by bit, need to tidy up some welds still as i go but getting there!

So....

Where were we.....?



























And breath…

Good work mate.... it's like deja vu... all the same places as mine...

We have two totally different solutions to the torque rod mounts. Did you say you were investigating adjustable torque rods?

Keep up the good work.

jeez, you've been busy, it looked tidy before you started? ? ?

I have a spot welder I'm sure you could have borrowed for some of the seams along the back edge of valance, much easier than trying to weld 'tissue-paper'

I'm not happy on anything less than 16SWG, but can do 18-20SWG at a push.

for the rear mounts of EVA I made up some 'bolt-on' type versions which in the event were not required, as the metal was better than initial prodding (with large screwdriver/chipping-hammer) suggested. but I kept them any-way as reckoned they might still have a use, from memory held on with four or six high tensile allen bolts clamped through the main box section, each hole was going to be drilled at 'just under' 8mm and then gently opened out to match the bracket, all to prevent any movement. Stronger than the single M10 cross bolt and the torque arms!!
access to the nuts on inside via the holes provided by Volvo for tow-bar and the opening in rear of valance.

Jay-Kay-Em wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 07, 2020 6:30 pm

Good work mate.... it's like deja vu... all the same places as mine...

We have two totally different solutions to the torque rod mounts. Did you say you were investigating adjustable torque rods?

Keep up the good work.

Cheers lad, yeah there's a lad who has made up some prototype adjustable rods, so they are in the pipework but I'm now in the middle of a house move amidst all of this so they're taking a back seat for a wee minute! but rest assured they will be available soon! what route did you go down for the torque rod mounts?

Alan 480 wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 07, 2020 6:48 pm

jeez, you've been busy, it looked tidy before you started? ? ?

I have a spot welder I'm sure you could have borrowed for some of the seams along the back edge of valance, much easier than trying to weld 'tissue-paper'

I'm not happy on anything less than 16SWG, but can do 18-20SWG at a push.

for the rear mounts of EVA I made up some 'bolt-on' type versions which in the event were not required, as the metal was better than initial prodding (with large screwdriver/chipping-hammer) suggested. but I kept them any-way as reckoned they might still have a use, from memory held on with four or six high tensile allen bolts clamped through the main box section, each hole was going to be drilled at 'just under' 8mm and then gently opened out to match the bracket, all to prevent any movement. Stronger than the single M10 cross bolt and the torque arms!!
access to the nuts on inside via the holes provided by Volvo for tow-bar and the opening in rear of valance.

A spot welder would have been handy but I persevered, I bought myself a handheld "joggler and 6mm punch" tool which has been super handy instead of drilling loads of holes manually, access to the nuts are nigh on as good (or bad??) as the original mounts, my only error is that my mounts are a little wide about the mouth for the standard bush, but the poly bushes I use are actually a tickly wider so it should be ok, nothing a few stainless shims won't omit if worst comes to worst! it could all be neater, but it'll do for now as the exterior arches will have to be removed in a few years anyway as i found out how horribly they are held on under the paint while i had the inner arch fuel filler area off... a smart man would have scrapped the shell and bought another that hadn't been as seriously bodged together by a terrible body shop but this shell is shiny and i wasn't ready to give up on it just yet !

Now onto battery relocation to the rear, re-wiring of all the 12V constant feeds throughout the car, a serious tidy up of the aftermarket ECU and also re routing the wiring looms in the engine bay for a bit of a neater appearance... slowly but surely we're getting there!

https://youtu.be/Rvz-H17wA60

Spotted! Approx 11 mins in.

100 wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 10, 2020 4:33 pm

https://youtu.be/Rvz-H17wA60

Spotted! Approx 11 mins in.

Superb. Unable to roast the car because it’s cooler than a penguins feet.

my version of rear arm, used a captive M10 nut behind the 1" box section.
I discovered that must have planned to use some M8 and one M10 per side, judging by the plates cut for within the rear chassis section (and some plates with pilot holes only!!)

Offside 'right way up'


maybe clearer to see the captive plate?


I know these are not a U shape but as it is a high tensile Allen bolt and passes through a 1" box then the leverage should be OK, 2mm thick plate already had the rlled edges so took advantage o fthe extra strength and 2" box section cut off to suit the slope of the chassis leg. reasoned that if fitted both as mirror image then any error in fitting would be matched and only adjusting the top of the suspension a thochty fore-n-aft so little (if any) change to the toe-in / camber etc. less than the effect of the panhard rod . .

and easier removal / any bush size will do ?

100 wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 10, 2020 4:33 pm

https://youtu.be/Rvz-H17wA60

Spotted! Approx 11 mins in.

not going to lie I was kind of hoping for some kind of criticism! haha

Alan 480 wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 11, 2020 7:30 pm

my version of rear arm, used a captive M10 nut behind the 1" box section.
I discovered that must have planned to use some M8 and one M10 per side, judging by the plates cut for within the rear chassis section (and some plates with pilot holes only!!)

Offside 'right way up'


maybe clearer to see the captive plate?


I know these are not a U shape but as it is a high tensile Allen bolt and passes through a 1" box then the leverage should be OK, 2mm thick plate already had the rlled edges so took advantage o fthe extra strength and 2" box section cut off to suit the slope of the chassis leg. reasoned that if fitted both as mirror image then any error in fitting would be matched and only adjusting the top of the suspension a thochty fore-n-aft so little (if any) change to the toe-in / camber etc. less than the effect of the panhard rod . .

and easier removal / any bush size will do ?

I think anything really is stronger than the standard arrangement haha - it is quite surprising how much lowering (to my extent anyway) the camber and toe changes on the rear!

Some more wee updates!

So I think I've mentioned that I've been working on relocating the battery to the rear of the car for general neatness in the engine bay, move a bit of weight around etc.

The first pic you can see a rear strut brace/harness bar I've made up which picks up on the rear seatback clasp mounting points, the rear upper shock bolts and then down onto the rear subframe for the Panhard bar, just behind it in the image you can see the new battery tray, it mounts to the original seat/seatbelt/centre armrest mounting points (I don't run rear seats anymore). The second picture is the same few after the first coat of Hammerite, its since had another coat.




Next up you can see on the other end of the battery relocation in the engine bay we have a wee twin post M10 distribution block, this is fed from a larger busbar/distro block mounted under the passenger side of the dash which has several smaller m6 terminals to supply the ECU and all internal 12v feeds to the cabin. From the pictures distro block a feed then goes up to a Mini R53 jump start point for handiness and the two smaller gauge wires shown will eventually feed the starter and come from the alternator.





Finally, I've finally managed to get my Carbon Fibre airbox fitted up onto the throttle bodies, it's fitted to an acrylic/perspex backplate that a friend of mine laser cut with his tabletop laser engraver/cutter he uses for engraving custom wooden and metal items for gifts, Pretty chuffed with the alternator clearance we achieved!






Cheers!

Looking great and I love the idea of that engine which has our block but new head, etc. It seems to tick clever upgrade and originality in my head rather than all out conversion, which I approve of!

jamescarruthers wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 10, 2020 9:32 am

Looking great and I love the idea of that engine which has our block but new head, etc. It seems to tick clever upgrade and originality in my head rather than all out conversion which I approve of!

its not quite oem+ but its in the same bloodline with a little bit of mongrel added into the mix

cranna21 wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 10, 2020 9:37 am

jamescarruthers wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 10, 2020 9:32 am

Looking great and I love the idea of that engine which has our block but new head, etc. It seems to tick clever upgrade and originality in my head rather than all out conversion which I approve of!

its not quite oem+ but its in the same bloodline with a little bit of mongrel added into the mix

Thats a better way of putting it!

Finally back onto getting things ready for the engine going in, got the mk2 clio servo installed last night (reason for this is its nigh on identical but is known good condition and all my non ABS spares are questionable, had to chop down and re-drill the hole for the brake pedal linkage but simple wee job) brand new master cylinder fitted up then using the oem non ABS brake pot mounted to a wee aluminium bracket i made up I've linked the pair with Renault 5 Monaco brake pot feed pipes. Since the Williams engine's head is deeper I can't run the brake pot in the standard position, I actually only have around 10mm between the back of the head and the end of the master cylinder once the engines in, just barely enough room for the factory heatsheild. Started the front brake pipes, will get the rears started soon enough but the next mission is to trim the top of the front slam panel to allow room for the carbon air box and not long after that I'll get the engine in I think for its first mock up fit for re-routing plumbing and wiring

Few more wee hurdles jumped over!

Got a wee vacuum manifold fitted up underneath the throttle bodies, this should hopefully (along with the new servo and master cylinder) help with the braking issues I had last time around. What I'll do is run 4 feeds to 4 of the smaller nipples, one feed from each oem injector port using some machined bosses that sit in snuggly. One spare port will then feed the fuel pressure regulator and the other spare small port will feed a Vacuum Gauge in the dashboard (because I'm paranoid ) then the large feed at the side will, of course, be for the brake booster!

Secondly, I got the engine off the stand, the main seal in, new TTV 3.0kg flywheel on (OEM Clio 172 item is 5.8 KG) this flywheel is a "Clio Williams flywheel to take a Clio 172 Clutch featuring a 60-2 trigger pattern as found also on a Clio 172" which from what I can tell is a long-winded way of saying "its a Clio 172 flywheel"???

Paired to this is a "Clutch fix UK" Clio 172 +30% clutch plate and +30% pressure plate with a new release bearing - hopefully, this gives me the little bit extra bite that the OEM LUK 172 clutch just lacked if you were being a little bit harder on it without the hassle of a paddle clutch

The 3 Piece kit was something like £80.00 and arrived in 2 days, made to order, give them a search if you have an illustrious Turbo 215mm clutch and want something a little meatier!

Excuse some of the mess - it'll get a proper clean soon haha!