Advice needed

Here you can talk about the joy owning a Volvo 480 brings. Non-technical discussions take place here, like what is the difference between an ES and a S version.

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wedge69
Can tell where the 480 was built
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Advice needed

Post by wedge69 » Wed Nov 23, 2005 4:16 pm

'ello,

So as you may have read, my speedo bust and it was in the garage to get fixed today. The dude took the dash apart, checked all the solder, etc, but it didn't fix it.

Good point - no fix, no charge.

Bad point - problem is likely to be in the sensor in the gearbox. Seems the sensor may have come too far away from the flywheel to get any readings. This is going to cost over £100 to fix, which he can do next week if I want it doing.

Anyway, you can tell from the sound of my car that the gearbox is on the way out. Mechanic reckons it has got between 6 and 12 months. He can rebuild it, but at a cost of £650.

Now I need my car, because I commute 80 miles a day, so I am left with one of three options:
1) Do nothing and look for another car
2) Attempt to fix the speedo, and wait for my gearbox to go.
3) Fix everything.

Option 3 doesn't seem practical, the cost is going to outweigh the value of the car.

I have a 94 L Reg S model by the way.

So does anyone have any practical advice?
That's my car up there, see?

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robin_xr4i
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Post by robin_xr4i » Wed Nov 23, 2005 4:59 pm

sometimes you need to lay out more than the cars worth.

Depends how good the car is?

it its a bit of a shed, get looking for a nice turbo!
[img]http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a376/robin_xr4i/newsign.jpg[/img]

My old Volvo 480 // Type: Turbo // Year: 1992 // Colour: 305 - Black Metallic // Engine: B18FT // Mods: Rich Mod, Recirculating Piston Dump Valve, Pi Lowering Springs, Induction Kit

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guitarcarfanatic
480 Is my middle name
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Post by guitarcarfanatic » Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:04 pm

Or get on ebay and email everyone breaking 480's with the same engine as yours and see how much they want for their gearbox(and the sensor will probably come with it too). You should be able to get one under £50 and approach a few local garages for the cost to swap a gear box or even attempt it yourself.

Rob
1996 Saab 9000 CSE 2litre EcoTurbo

Previously...
Peugeot 406 executive TD - The devil!

1991 Red Turbo - Great condition and surprisingly un-rusty!

1989 Light Blue metallic Turbo - Sold!

1993 Steel grey S - Bought for parts

1990 Red ES - Now resting in car heaven!

1989 Black ES - Great runner

1989 Black ES - Spares Car. I murdered it!

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Brasco
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Post by Brasco » Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:17 pm

Good time to ditch the S and get a Turbo! ;)
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/Brasco480/myelan3.jpg[/img][img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/Brasco480/SV400024rip-1.jpg[/img][img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/Brasco480/fc85e36c.jpg[/img][img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/Brasco480/SV400044-1.jpg[/img]

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TLindley
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Post by TLindley » Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:30 pm

Most garages i spoke to about the clio wouldnt fit any other gearboxes, theyd only refurb the old one or fit one of their refurbs because of warranty etc.

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martinholmesuk
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Post by martinholmesuk » Thu Nov 24, 2005 12:52 pm

Bad point - problem is likely to be in the sensor in the gearbox. Seems the sensor may have come too far away from the flywheel to get any readings. This is going to cost over £100 to fix,
My sensor is also faulty. I done this a few times and tomorrow i'm going to replace the sensor.

I don't know if it's the same on a manual gearbox.

Jack up car, support car, drain ATF (manual car? I don't know)

remove driver side front wheel

unbolt (15mm/15mm) bolt and nut which holds the ball joint to the wishbone.

push balljoint out of wishbone (shocks push outwards)

Get a large screwdriver on start of drive shaft (gearbox end) and lever the shaft out of the gearbox casing.

PUSH HARD (i used my feet) to get the drive shaft out.

The speedo gear/sensor is made of alloy and bolted in using X3 13mm bolts.

remove bolts, push casing away

warning the speedo gear (on auto it's plastic with metal surround) might fall out as might some shimms but there easy to put back on.

on top of the casing is the speedo sensor, it's held in with a clip and I 'THINK' a allen key bolt.

Removed and replace.

the wire into the loom comes out near the airbox (2 wire/clip)

sounds hard but it's not that bad a job.


Good luck! (remember this is for the automatic and not manual gearbox but i would think it's the same)
Volvo 940 Turbo 19T (real Volvo :P)
Audi TT

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martinholmesuk
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Post by martinholmesuk » Fri Nov 25, 2005 1:36 pm

Image

That's why my speedo does not work

Image

The housing the speedo gear / sensor lives in.

Image

Speedo gear
Volvo 940 Turbo 19T (real Volvo :P)
Audi TT

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vins480t
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Post by vins480t » Fri Nov 25, 2005 1:54 pm

Martin.
those parts are only on an auto not a manual
only the piece in the first pic is in a manual
that piece is nect to the tstarter engine and can be removed without draining the box.
jack car up
under car between rear enginemount and box is the starterengine and the sensor
its fitted with 1 single bolt and a shim
unmount the bolt and the clip and the sensor can come out
then there is the strugle with the wire cus it goes through a gap in the box togetter with the starter wires (2)
V!nc!en[color=red][b]T[/b][/color]e

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martinholmesuk
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Post by martinholmesuk » Fri Nov 25, 2005 3:12 pm

Lucky manual owners, No chance of removing the sensor without snapping your fingers off :rofl:

My speedo is working again!
Volvo 940 Turbo 19T (real Volvo :P)
Audi TT

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vins480t
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Post by vins480t » Fri Nov 25, 2005 3:35 pm

perfect martin.
what alot of work on an auto.
nice pic repo m8
V!nc!en[color=red][b]T[/b][/color]e

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MGB_GT
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Post by MGB_GT » Fri Nov 25, 2005 6:32 pm

I agree sometimes it's worth paying more than the car to get it fixed if the car itself is mechanically sound. Think about it like this, if you buy three throwaway cars @ £300 a time, but only keep them 6 months, it's more expensive than repairing a good one that will go for years if fixed. As with everything it's a balanced risk, you obviously know your own car and what work has been done, I always take the view a car which you know is better than one you don't, once you've had it done you'll know it won't need doing again provided it's done properly.

I wouldn't bother getting it refurbished, I'd get a second hand one, but probably best to spend the extra and get it from somewhere who'll give you some kind of warranty, most decent breakers will for something like this. However again you've got the problem if it doesn't work, your going to pay for the labour all the same, at the same time to save such disputes a lot of garages won't do this, because their suppliers have to gaurentee the part against his labour costs if it's a dudd.

If your anywhere near Southampton, I know of a good Volvo Specialist who break them who will also do the fitting (saving such problems). Again they are a little more expensive, but I don't think you'd be looking at £650, and they would probably warrant the repair, albeit for a short period. Let me know if you want the details, otherwise you might find a simiar outfit locally.
Penelope - 97P Rover 618 Silver
The departed:
480GT - 94L Dark Green Met
480ES (2.0) - 93L Vase Green Met,
480ES (1.7) - 89G Black
480ES (1.7) - 88F Gunmetal Grey

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chris1roll
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Post by chris1roll » Fri Nov 25, 2005 8:56 pm

MGB_GT wrote:I agree sometimes it's worth paying more than the car to get it fixed if the car itself is mechanically sound. Think about it like this, if you buy three throwaway cars @ £300 a time, but only keep them 6 months, it's more expensive than repairing a good one that will go for years if fixed. As with everything it's a balanced risk, you obviously know your own car and what work has been done, I always take the view a car which you know is better than one you don't, once you've had it done you'll know it won't need doing again provided it's done properly.
I'll take this sentiment and add to it....

I have recorded everything I have done to my car on pistonheads.com.
I have owned the car 3 years, and in that time, I have spent 2,500 on maintenance and repairs.
This includes £480 on tyres alone :shock: and £320 approx on upgrades. So, if you take out the "upgrades" that were not necessary, thats 2,300 pounds over three years.
Now, if I were to spend 2,500 on a much newer car, the only way it would save me money is if I never had to spend any money on it ever for three years.
Think I'll stick with the 17 yr old 480 thanks.
2001 V70 XC 2.5T
1989 744 GL Auto

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