Volvo 480 Club Europe

In fact there is four cables connected to the shoe. a big red one, probably the main plus electric a thin blck one, connected separate and then two cables which goes threw a sort of box when I turn the whole cable, it makes a clicking sound. My suspicions: Have it maybe to do with alarm or immobiliz...

The battery plus poleshoe broke yesterday so I have to fix a new one.

But how do I get the old one lose?

And what is the wire/cable that is connected to it?

Found it! I ought to have figured it out much earlier though. It was the distributor cap. More precise, the middle little pin with a spring (inside the cap) in the top that brings the electicity to the rotor. It was stuck or maybe broken. So that is why the faulty codes was "flywheel sensor". The co...

Should the fuel pump always turn around for about 3 seconds when you turn the ignition on? Mine do not.... In Haynes on page 4B11 chapter 9 Fuel system, it says that when ignition turns on, the fuelpump works ca 3 seconds. If not, what is the problem? My engine do not start (se separate thread), the...

No, already tried that. Even forgot the fuel cap on the roof over night... Normally a 400-series Volvo starts immideately summer/winter (+30 to -30 Celcius) with no hesitation. And then idle just fine. Now, even to just start the engine (cold) takes some time, it caughes a lot, but eventually starts...

1. Cleaning the coil, OK I try that a little later. You see I have already tried another coil that I know is OK (that is, the car/engine works OK), so it must be something else in my case. 2. The diagnostic fault code says 2-1-4 which is "Flywheel sensor, signal faulty". But, then again, I have alre...

No. That was not the problem. Back on square one. 1. Why does the code 2-1-4 comes up? You can not trust the diagnostic system? 2. I have two codes: 2-1-4 and 3-2-4 in socket 2 (fuel system), but code 3-2-4 does note exist, exept at socket 3; right side rear sensor...and so on. As it happens, code 2...

Fault code 2-1-4 id est flywheel sensor signal faulty.

As I mentioned the sensor has been changed so now I looked closely at the cable, and ther was a wear farther from the connector and I could see the copper wire...

I do the work coming weekend. I inform you all.

Engine starts, run for perhaps 4-5 minutes. Then just suddenly dies. And will not start again. So it starts when it is cold, but will not start when it is getting warm. I have changed the impulsesensor (over the crankwheel, the position sensor) and also the ignition coil modul. But the problem is th...

Sorry, 10 would be 200 euro each.

20 would be 150 euro each and so on.

How about plastic?

Probably not weaker. For sure lighter. Never rust.

The first one is expensive (about 1000 euro) beacouse making the mould.

Making two would cost 500 euro each.

20 would be around 200 euro each.

Materials for each one is about 100 euro so thats the bottom price.

I am restoring my 1990 Volvo 480, which among other things, has a non existing rear bumper plate. They are not available from Volvo, as you know. I have another 480 (1992) which has a new rear bumper plate installed 2008 (from Volvo). My plan this summer is to disamble that plate, and have a worksho...

Hmm... anyone who know where this relay is (not where it not is)?

Any lightbulbs that is constant on? In for example the glove compartment? Or at the rear door?

The battery should NOT drain that fast.

Now I tested another headlight switch. No different.

So its back to the relay. Butwhere do I find it?

In the relaybox or somewhere under the dashboard?

This is a 1992 model, so the relay is not on the back of the instrument cluster.

It cant be inside the instrument cluster box?

1. I shall test another headlight switch from a friends 480.

2. The realay layout yes, but are there really any relays in the relaybox that can affect this malfunction? Which one?

This evening I have done some testing and work to find out what is wrong. To start with, my car is a 1992 years model. The relay is not on the back (under a plastic cover) on the instrument cluster. But I have an instrument from a donor car (1988) and there is the relay on the back, under a plastic ...

Deep in the forrest of Sweden...
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The relay do only have to modes, and in this cases it means that the instruments light is on in both modes. One in 12V directly and one via the reostat.

So can it really be the relay that is the problem? Can it get stuck between the two modes?

pgmm:
- where, exactly, do I find relay 4.35?
- how much and what do I have to disassemble?

For information; I have now checked fuse 19 and it is OK.